Monday, March 7, 2011

A Tale of Two Ancient Cities

Our next travel destination led us to two of the oldest cities in Europe, Rome and Athens.  When you first arrive to these places, you are awed by these enormous structures that have been standing for thousands of years.  The ruins from past empires are interspersed with modernity.  Both Rome and Athens are constructed around these ancient sites.  Although we may have a tendency to group these cities together, they are wholly different.
The Colosseum
Our first stop was Rome.  Rome is one of those cities where (on your first visit) there is so much to see, you are left with little time to explore on your own.  We of course were no different and wanted to see all the tourist attractions.  The first day was devoted to the Colosseum.  We must have taken at least 500 pictures on just that day; from the inside, from the outside, from a distance, and from every angle and camera setting.  After playing models for a few hours, our stomachs were talking.  We decided on the obvious, pizza and gelato.  I know Naples is famous for pizza and Florence for gelato, but its Italy, I doubt that food could be bad anywhere in the country.  Jon and I enjoyed a 4 cheese pizza and artichoke bruschetta. 
Artichoke Bruschetta
We located a small gelato shop that had 20 flavors.  There was a long line which is usually a good sign; I mean it wasn’t a particularly warm day.  Jon treated himself to chocolate, tiramisu and crème caramel and I enjoyed coconut, nutella, and crème caramel.  We both were thoroughly satisfied with our choices.  When choosing gelato, it is always a gamble because not all flavors are created equal so taste, taste, taste.  I learned this lesson with a not so good strawberry gelato. 
Gelato
For dinner, we ate pasta, that versatile ingredient that seems to define Italy.  Jon chose pasta carbonara and I ate the house special which was homemade egg noodles with sausage and mushrooms.  We found the flavor to be decent but not spectacular.  The thing is with Roman food, there did not seem to be much variety in the menu from restaurant to restaurant.  I guess this can be said for most places in the world but for some reason I was not expecting this and found this fact disappointing. 
House Special Pasta
The next three days were spent at the Palatino, Roman Forum and Vatican city.  Rome offers a lot of sites that you can visit for free like the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish steps which we did not hesitate to take advantage of.  These iconic Roman places were beautiful but jam-packed with tourists.  We visited on the off season so I can only imagine how it is during the summer.  The most notable foodie adventure was a trip to Pizzeria La Montecarlo which has been voted best pizza in Rome and has been recommended in Le Guide de Routard almost every year since 1996.  It is located on a small side street, nearly impossible to find unless you are paying attention to the indistinct street signs.  This was another case which we were about to give up, but then found our destination.  Besides being delicious, Pizzeria La Montecarlo is affordable, speedy with good service.  We of course ordered pizza and fried mozzarella balls.  The mozzarella balls were crusty on the outside and oozing cheesy goodness on the inside.  The pizzas had super thin crusts, crisped in a wood fired over causing a charred flavor to be added.  I chose the Montecarlo special which came with olives, peppers, artichoke hearts, mushrooms, and an egg.  Jon ordered the 4 cheeses, he was devoted to finding the best one in Rome.  I would have to agree with Le Guide de Routard, it was not only the best pizza we had in Rome but also the most enjoyable meal we ate during our stay.
Mozarella Balls
Me and my Pizza
We didn’t have time to miss Rome as we were whisked away to Athens for the weekend.  We were greeted with sunshine and a pure blue sky.  We felt like we were in paradise.  We were tired of the rain and gloom, and the warmth was a welcomed treat.
Temple of Zeus
I found the people in Athens to be genuine and overall good folks to hang out with.  This attitude created a comfortable atmosphere for us outsiders.  Our first order of business was lunch.  We went to the first place we saw and did not regret it.  Our character of a waiter recommended pork gyros and tabbouleh salad (I still think my Dad’s is better!).  The waiter believed that the gyro symbolized Greece and I would have to agree.  Wherever you go, you can always depend on a delicious cheap gyro, which we got to know well over the course of our time there.
Pork Gyros
He taught us how to say thank you in Greek, efharistó.  Overall a pleasant and insightful lunch.  Next, we walked to the ruins of Hadrian’s library which was guarded by stray dogs.  By the end of the trip, I regarded them as the Guardians of the Temple.  After, we tried to go to the Acropolis but it was closed.  Temple of Zeus, closed. Finally a tourist office, also closed!  For some reason Athens shuts down after 3pm on a Saturday.  For dinner, we were lured into a restaurant by the owner promising free drinks and dessert.  Who can turn that down?  Again, we were not disappointed by the food or service.  Drinking our Alfa Beer we shared moussaka and lamb with a lemon sauce smothered in cheese and ham. 
Lamb Dish
Both were simple and tasty dishes.  Sunday brought with it the excitement of another day of ruin tourism.  Even though Athens closed down the day before, it made up by having all attractions free on Sunday.  We were able to go to the Ancient Agora, Hephaestus Temple, Zeus Temple, Dionysus Theater and of course the Acropolis (otherwise known as the Parthenon).  We had another beautiful day hiking through the Athenian hills.  I mean we had a real climb to the Acropolis but the clear views of the city were stunning.  The Parthenon itself was a magnificent site.
The Parthenon
We were lucky enough to spend Valentine’s Day in Athens. We started the day by visiting the meat market.  That sounds romantic, doesn’t it?  I assure you, it is not for those faint of heart or squeamish characters.  The market smelled of raw meat mingled with the scent of oregano and mint.  It was like nothing I had ever seen with men in white butcher coats shouting as you walked past to come visit their stall.  Different cuts and animals hanging from big metal hooks, it was raw in every sense of the word.
Meat Market
There were shops of dried fruit and nuts, olives, spice stores and of course feta cheese.  I had to have a taste and the nice salesman gave me a nice chunk to eat. 
Feta Cheese
We treated ourselves to some sweet and savory Greek pies at Apiston.  We had spanakopita (spinach and feta), pumpkin with honey, and sweet cheese with cinnamon.  They were decadent.  One will definitely fill you up.
Sweet Cheese Pie
We spent the day wondering the city, exploring the lesser known sites like the national gardens and the Olympic stadium.  There was a strike so all public transportation was not running and Greek guards were standing on every corner to ensure violence didn’t break out (nothing happened).  Since we were low on cash at this point, we opted for a luxurious chocolate cake called love cake instead of dinner.  This cake was so rich and moist.  It tasted like it had been sitting and soaking up chocolate sauce all day.  It was a perfect end to our time in Greece.
Love Cake
Re-reading my account, it would seem that our trips are fine and dandy without the slightest hiccup.  Although we are having the time of our lives, it doesn’t mean we haven’t had to experience growing pains.  You can have the best parents in the world who try and prepare you for the real world, but you don’t understand how difficult it is until you have to make the decisions yourself.  I consider myself lucky to have parents who have given me tools to cope with the world around me; I hate to think where I would be without their guidance.  I understand more than ever the stress money and a budget can put on a relationship.  I am discovering how to balance living life and enjoying the present while being conscious of the future.  When I came to Europe, I felt that a big change in my life would occur.  Imagining an amazing career opportunity or dreaming of an epiphany that would guide me to my right path.  Instead I am learning how to deal with life as it comes, jumping over hurdles, dodging wrenches, and adapting to each opportunity presented to me, good or bad.  It’s not a fun process but a necessary one.  All in all, Jon and I are supporting each other through these life lessons while enjoying the scenery along the way.

4 comments:

  1. You aptly express the Fulbright year experience in that last paragraph, Leah. I totally agree. Well said.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Leah
    What a great trip to Italy and some fabulous looking Italian food.... love your choice of gelato flavor!!

    ReplyDelete
  3. I found your blog post for Strawberry Cake and would like to make the recipe and share it and your blog site on my blog http://www.chicwrap.com. Could you contact me at ruth@chicwrap.com?

    ReplyDelete
  4. http://ww25.apronofgrace.com/2011/rose-bouquet-strawberry-birthday-cake/

    The above link to this website for the cake recipe is no longer good/valid, as is your Facebook page either. Is there ANY way to get the preparation and cooking instructions that go with this recipe? For some unknown and strange reason, the recipe in incomplete. It only has HALF of the recipe posted, but NOTHING more, as far as the preparation and baking instructions are concerned. I, nor anyone else, can make this cake without the rest of the information. Could you please be so kind as to post the ENTIRE recipe or contact me to let me know what it is? I would appreciate it. Thank you.

    ReplyDelete